Culinary Reconnections and Innovations in L.A.
Celebrated Reunion: Waters and Tower
A recent highlight in the culinary world was the unexpected reunion of Alice Waters and Jeremiah Tower at the Ojai Food + Wine Festival. Known for their significant yet contentious history, the two icons in California cuisine had not spoken for either 13 or 30 years, depending on who you ask. Their past disagreements were partly fueled by the overshadowing fame of Waters, the chef credited as the mother of California cuisine, which often eclipsed Tower’s contributions from their time at Chez Panisse and later at Stars in San Francisco.
During the festival, hosted by Ruth Reichl, the moment of their reunion was described as “one of the most satisfying moments in food in a long time.” Waters expressed a desire to celebrate their reconnection with a glass of Champagne, specifically Krug, a shared favorite. The emotional atmosphere brought forth tears of joy for Waters as they reminisced and rekindled their camaraderie, noting how the Champagne played a role in softening the years of silence.
Andrea Crawford’s Flourishing Bakery
Another notable presence at the Ojai Food + Wine Festival was Andrea Crawford, renowned for her contributions to the California culinary movement since the 1980s. She previously cultivated produce for Chez Panisse and Spago and is now the proud owner of Roan Mills Bakery in Fillmore. During the festival, she hosted a surprise visit from Nancy Silverton, founder of Mozza, which was a culmination of their shared history from their early careers in the industry.
Silverton, making her first visit to Crawford’s bakery, praised its spaciousness and engaged in discussions about pricing, baking techniques, and potential recipe adaptations. Crawford showcased her extraordinary offerings, including English muffins and cherry pie, emphasizing the synergy of their culinary journeys.
Reviving the 1976 Judgment of Paris
Commemorating a pivotal moment in California’s winemaking history, the 1976 Redo event seeks to recreate the legendary Judgment of Paris tasting. This new competition, spearheaded by Pax Mahle and Patrick Cappiello, recently evaluated nearly 400 wines across multiple categories. The focus was on finding the best American wines to stand alongside their French counterparts as in the original 1976 event that propelled California wines to international acclaim. This initiative reflects the ongoing evolution and aspiration of American winemakers.
In a series of marathon tastings, judges, including David Rosoff, selected finalists from entries spanning an impressive array of varietals like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, highlighting the quality and complexity of contemporary American wines.
Innovations from L.A.’s Tech Side
Seamus Blackley, known as the inventor of the Xbox, is now venturing into the realm of chocolate production in Los Angeles. His innovative approach involves cultivating cacao sourced locally, showcasing how regional microbes can influence flavor profiles differently compared to traditional growing climates. His vision for an L.A. chocolate company is set to explore unique flavors borne from local cultivation practices.
Highlighting Essential, Yet Overlooked, Workers
In the bustling restaurant sector, individuals performing essential roles often go unnoticed. A recent profile highlighted the experiences of Alfonso Lira, a utility worker in a Santa Ana gastropub, and his counterparts, including a dishwasher and a line cook. These narratives illustrate the vital contributions behind the scenes that ensure smooth operations and service quality in dining establishments across California.
Conclusion
The recent culinary events illustrate the dynamic landscape of Los Angeles’ food scene, showcasing reconnections among culinary legends, the emergence of innovative baking and winemaking practices, and the invaluable roles of often-overlooked staff. These developments not only celebrate past achievements but also pave the way for new experiences and flavors in California’s culinary narrative.